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nan chao bao yi bo dai zhi feng kao lue
Author(s): 
Pages: 40-41
Year: Issue:  2
Journal: Decoration

Keyword:  北魏孝文帝《洛神赋图》《颜氏家训》深衣礼服名士风度佛教造像园林艺术南北朝前服制;
Abstract: 中土自上古以逮衣带多较宽博,绝少束缚,宽衣大带衣快款然,虽历千年少有更易。农尚通脱,袖却有广小之分,大如元端袖,小如深衣袖,都可称之为广袖;小袖多为直袖,形状与臂膀恰相适合,不紧不机也有垂胡袖,袂较宽博而祛作窄式的。今人时常提及的“褒衣傅带”语出《汉书·卷71·隽不直传》“不疑冠、进贤冠……褒农傅带,盛服至门上谒。”“汉代儒生的服饰是宽抱大带,后遂用为咏德生之典。”“唐诗中有‘褒衣博带满尘埃,独自都堂纳卷回’句”。现代,褒衣傅带有广义与狭义两义,褒衣博带在广义上即形容中土的着装习俗,狭义上的褒衣博带所指并不流于宽泛,它一般是特指“开始于东晋末年齐梁之际,流行于梁陈”①的衣袖宽博风气。在这个时期
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